Based on the KUSA-adopted Kennel Club (UK) Standard · Effective 1 July 2025
Welcome to the World of Corgis!
If you're new to breeding Pembroke Welsh Corgis, one of the first things you'll hear about is the breed standard. But what exactly is it, and why does it matter? A breed standard is essentially a written description of what the ideal Pembroke Welsh Corgi should look like, how it should move, and how it should behave. Think of it as a blueprint — one that breeders use to make sure each generation stays true to the characteristics that make this breed so special. In South Africa, that blueprint comes from KUSA — the Kennel Union of Southern Africa. KUSA adopts its standards from the Kennel Club in the United Kingdom, meaning our local standard aligns with international expectations. The version used in this guide is effective from 1 July 2025.
A Little Bit of History
The Pembroke Welsh Corgi has a lineage traceable as far back as AD 1107. It is believed that Flemish weavers brought their dogs with them when they settled in Pembrokeshire, Wales. And yes — there are even fairy tales about Corgis! According to Welsh legend, children once discovered small puppies at a fairy funeral, and those puppies became the first Corgis. If you look closely at the base of a Corgi's haunches, you can spot a patch of slightly rougher fur — some call this the "fairy saddle."
In more practical terms, Corgis were bred as cattle herding dogs in the rugged landscapes of west Wales. Their low-set bodies allowed them to nip at the heels of cattle while avoiding kicks — a clever design! Even though very few Corgis herd cattle today, the breed standard still expects them to look like they could.
The Pembroke was officially recognised by the Kennel Club in 1928 alongside the Cardigan Welsh Corgi. The two breeds were formally separated in 1934 and are now considered distinct breeds.
What Should a Corgi Look Like?
General Appearance
The Pembroke Welsh Corgi should give the impression of being a small but powerful dog — compact, low to the ground, alert, and active. The breed standard describes this perfectly as conveying "substance and stamina in a small space." They should look tough and capable, not delicate or toy-like.
🐾 In plain English: Imagine a sturdy little worker — muscular and confident — not a fragile lapdog. That's the Corgi ideal.
Size & Weight
Here are the official size guidelines you'll need to know:
Height (males & females): Approximately 25 – 30 cm (10 – 12 inches) at the shoulder (withers)
Weight — Males: 10 – 12 kg
Weight — Females: 9 – 11 kg
Corgis are longer than they are tall, giving them that signature low, elongated shape. This is intentional — it's what made them effective herding dogs. However, they should never appear clumsy or heavy. The goal is an agile, well-proportioned frame.
⚠️ Breeder note: Watch out for puppies that are either too heavy-boned (looks coarse) or too lightly built (looks spindly). Neither is correct. Balance is everything.
The Head & Expression
Head & Skull
like in shape and appearance, with an alert, intelligent expression. The skull is fairly wide and flat between the ears, with a moderate stop (the step between forehead and muzzle). The muzzle tapers slightly toward the nose, which must be black. The proportion of muzzle to skull is 3 to 5 — so the muzzle is shorter than the back of the skull.
Eyes
Corgi eyes should be well-set, round, and medium in size. Importantly, the eye colour should be brown, blending with the colour of the coat. This gives them that warm, soulful expression that Corgi owners adore.
⚠️ Correction from older sources: Some older descriptions state that Corgi eyes are oval and dark. The current KUSA standard specifies round eyes that blend with coat colour — not simply 'dark'. This distinction matters in the show ring.
Ears
The ears are pricked (standing upright), medium-sized, and slightly rounded at the tip. A useful guideline from the standard: a line drawn from the tip of the nose through the eye should pass through or close to the tip of the ear when extended. This helps ensure the ears are correctly proportioned and positioned for that classic foxy look.
⚠️ Correction from older sources: Corgi ears are NOT sharply pointed — they are slightly rounded at the tip. This is a subtle but important distinction.
Mouth & Bite
Corgis should have a strong scissor bite — meaning the upper teeth closely overlap the lower teeth, set square to the jaws. This is described as "perfect, regular, and complete." A correct bite is important both for the dog's health and as a reflection of good breeding.
Body, Neck & Topline
Neck
The neck should be fairly long — this is actually specified in the standard. A well-proportioned, longer neck allows the dog to move freely and carry its head with elegance. Don't be fooled by the Corgi's stocky appearance — a short, thick neck is not correct.
Body
The body should be of medium length with well-sprung ribs (rounded, not flat). The chest is broad, deep, and well let down between the forelegs. The topline (the dog's back) should be level — neither dipping nor arching. Viewed from above, the body tapers slightly toward the hindquarters.
Forequarters
The front legs should be short and as straight as possible, with the forearm moulded around the chest. There should be ample bone carried right down to the feet, and elbows should fit closely to the sides — neither loose nor tied in. The shoulders should be well laid and angulated at 90 degrees to the upper arm.
Hindquarters
The hindquarters should be strong and flexible with well-angulated stifles (knees). The back legs are short, with ample bone down to the feet, and hocks should be straight when viewed from behind.
Feet
Feet are oval, with strong, well-arched, and tight toes. The two centre toes are slightly in advance of the two outer toes. Pads should be strong and well-cushioned, and nails kept short.
The Tail — A Frequently Asked Question!
The tail is a topic that often confuses newcomers, so let's break it down clearly.
Historically, Corgi tails were docked (cut short) as a practical measure to prevent injury during herding work. In South Africa, KUSA still permits both docked and undocked (natural) tails to be shown, and judges may not discriminate between the two.
For undocked Corgis, the tail is set in line with the topline and may be carried above or below the topline when the dog is moving or alert. Natural bobtails also occur in the breed — these are perfectly acceptable and the tail can be of any length, carried above or below the topline.
📋 KUSA rule: Regardless of whether a Corgi's tail is docked or natural, it must be given equal consideration at all FCI- and KUSA-licensed shows in South Africa. Judges cannot penalise either.
Coat & Colours
The Double Coat
One of the Corgi's most practical features is its double coat — a dense, weather-resistant undercoat beneath a straight, medium-length outer coat. This combination was developed to protect the breed from the harsh Welsh weather, and it works beautifully. The coat should never be soft, wavy, or wiry. A long, flowing coat (sometimes called a "fluffy" coat) is a serious fault in the show ring. The correct texture is firm and slightly coarse to the touch.
🧴 Grooming tip for newcomers: Because of that dense double coat, Corgis shed — a lot! Expect heavy shedding throughout the year with peaks in spring and autumn. Regular brushing (ideally several times a week) is essential and will make a huge difference.
Accepted Colours
KUSA accepts the following self colours, with or without white markings on the legs, brisket (chest), and neck. Some white on the head and foreface is also permissible: • Red • Sable • Fawn • Black and tan (often seen as tricolour with white markings)
Any other colour or combination is unacceptable. Merle is specifically listed as unacceptable in the breed standard. Blue, brindle, and similar colours are also never correct for a Pembroke.
⚠️ Important: Merle Corgis may look attractive, but they do not meet the breed standard and should never be bred intentionally. Merle colouring is also associated with health risks when two merle dogs are mated together.
Movement — Why It Matters
Watching a Corgi move correctly is one of the joys of the breed! Good movement tells you that the dog is structurally sound — that all the pieces are put together properly.
The standard calls for free and active movement. The front legs should reach well forward without too much lift, in unison with the driving thrust of the hind legs. When viewed from the front, the legs don't move in perfectly parallel lines — they incline slightly inward. This is correct and compensates for the Corgi's short legs and broad chest.
Think of it as an efficient, ground-covering stride rather than a high-stepping prance. The Corgi was built for endurance and tireless work, not speed or flashy movement.
Temperament — What to Expect
According to the KUSA standard, the Pembroke Welsh Corgi should be outgoing and friendly, and must never be nervous or aggressive. This is not just about personality — temperament is a breed standard requirement!
Corgis are bold in outlook and workmanlike in character. They're confident, curious, and sociable dogs that love being involved in family life. They are highly intelligent — ranked 11th in Stanley Coren's famous book The Intelligence of Dogs — and they thrive on mental stimulation and activity.
🐕 For new breeders: Temperament should be a priority in your breeding programme. A Corgi that is shy, anxious, or snappy is not meeting the breed standard. Always choose breeding stock that is stable, friendly, and approachable.
Health Considerations for Breeders
KUSA's standard states clearly: only functionally and clinically healthy dogs with breed-typical conformation should be used for breeding. As a breeder, your responsibility extends well beyond physical appearance.
Pembrokes are an achondroplastic breed, meaning they are a true dwarf breed. Their long bodies and short legs can predispose them to certain health conditions. Responsible breeders screen for: • Hip dysplasia • Degenerative Myelopathy (DM) • Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA) and other inherited eye conditions • Von Willebrand's disease • Monorchidism (males should have two apparently normal, fully descended testicles)
Genetic testing is available for many of these conditions and is strongly encouraged. Corgis are also prone to obesity — their appetite is robust and they will eat whatever is offered! Keeping breeding stock at a healthy weight is an important part of responsible ownership.
A 2024 UK study found the average life expectancy for Pembrokes to be 13.2 years — slightly higher than the average for purebreds — which speaks well of the breed's overall resilience when properly cared for.
A Final Word
The breed standard might feel overwhelming at first — there's a lot to take in! But remember, it exists to protect the Pembroke Welsh Corgi. Every point in the standard has a purpose, whether it's related to the dog's health, function, or the characteristics that make the breed uniquely itself.
As a newcomer to breeding, your job is to study the standard, visit established breeders, attend shows, and ask questions. The Corgi community in South Africa is passionate and knowledgeable, and most experienced breeders are happy to guide those who are genuinely committed to the breed.
Above all, breed for health first, temperament second, and conformation third. A Corgi that is healthy, happy, and a joy to be around is always a credit to the breed — regardless of how many show ribbons it wins.
📚 Resources: For the full official standard, visit www.kusa.co.za and download the Herding Group breed standards. The Welsh Corgi League (welshcorgileague.org) also provides excellent in-depth guidance with notes from experienced breeders.
